Chengdu

Chengdu Nightlife

Chengdu splits its evenings in two. Jiuyanqiao is a genuine bar strip with a hundred-odd venues along the river; everywhere else the city does something much slower, and the slower version is the one people move here for.

Chengdu has a reputation as the most relaxed large city in China, and its nightlife reflects that rather than contradicting it. There is one proper bar district. The rest of the evening economy is teahouses, mahjong tables, skewer joints and pavement seating that fills up at nine and empties slowly.

The five areas#

AreaChineseWhere it isMetro
Jiuyanqiao bar street九眼桥酒吧街成都市锦江区一环路南一段九眼桥头Lines 2 and 6, Niuwangmiao (about 3 minutes)
Taikoo Li成都远洋太古里成都市锦江区中纱帽街8号Lines 2 and 3, Chunxi Road (direct exit)
Yulin West Road玉林西路成都市武侯区芳草街道玉林西路Line 3, Yiguanmiao
Kuanzhai Alleys宽窄巷子成都市青羊区长顺上街127号Line 2, Tonghuimen (exit A)
People's Park teahouses人民公园成都市青羊区少城路12号Line 2, People's Park

What each one is#

Jiuyanqiao is the actual bar district — around a hundred venues along the Jin River by the old bridge, most with outdoor seating, running late and loud. This is where you go if you want a night out in the sense the phrase usually carries.

Taikoo Li is the open-plan luxury retail quarter next to Daci Temple, built low-rise and walkable, with the bars and restaurants that go with that. Polished and expensive. It connects directly to Chunxi Road station, which makes it the easiest evening in the city to reach.

Yulin is the neighbourhood one — low buildings, plane trees, skewer restaurants, small bars and the sense of a residential district that happens to be enjoyable at night. Less spectacle than the other two and better company.

Kuanzhai Alleys turns from a daytime tourist street into bars and courtyards after dark. Commercial, pretty, busy.

People's Park is the alternative to all of it. The teahouses run into the evening, and an evening spent in a bamboo chair over refilled tea is a completely legitimate way to spend a night in Chengdu rather than a consolation prize.

Practical notes#

The metro closes earlier than the bars. DiDi is the way home; set the destination in the app before you leave so there is nothing to explain.

Skewers are the late-night food. Chuanchuan and barbecue stalls run well past the restaurants, and Yulin is a good place to find them.

Mahjong is not a tourist activity, it is the activity. If you are invited to a table, the polite move is to admit you cannot play and let someone teach you badly for an hour.

Pay by phone — Alipay and WeChat Pay everywhere, including street stalls.

For where to eat first see where to eat in Chengdu; for the daytime, things to do in Chengdu.