Hong Kong is part of China but operates as a separate customs, immigration and currency territory. For a traveller this has concrete consequences: different entry rules, different money, different plugs, and — the one people notice first — an unfiltered internet. Google, WhatsApp, Instagram and everything else work normally.
Entry rules#
Hong Kong maintains its own immigration policy. Most nationalities enter visa-free: British citizens for 180 days, EU, US, Canadian, Australian and many other passport holders for 90 days, and many others for 14–30 days. A mainland Chinese visa does not cover Hong Kong, and travelling from Hong Kong into the mainland counts as a fresh entry against your Chinese visa or visa-free allowance.
Practically, this makes Hong Kong extremely useful for the 240-hour visa-free transit scheme: an onward flight or train from mainland China to Hong Kong satisfies the "third country or region" requirement. See our visa guide.
Getting around#
Octopus card — the stored-value card used for the MTR, buses, trams, ferries, convenience stores and many restaurants. Buy one at any MTR station (HK$150 including a HK$50 deposit) or add it to your phone wallet. It is the single most useful object in Hong Kong.
MTR — fast, clean, fully bilingual, and reaches everywhere you need.
Star Ferry — HK$5, ten minutes across Victoria Harbour between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central, and the best value sightseeing on earth.
Ding ding trams — double-decker trams on Hong Kong Island, flat fare, slow and wonderful. Sit upstairs at the front.
Note: unlike the mainland, ordinary contactless Visa and Mastercard work everywhere in Hong Kong. Your normal card behaves normally here.
What to do#
Victoria Peak. The Peak Tram (renovated and much higher capacity than it used to be) or bus 15 up to the Peak. Skip the paid Sky Terrace and walk the Lugard Road circuit — a flat, free, 45-minute loop with better views than the paid platform.
Victoria Harbour. The Star Ferry at dusk, the Symphony of Lights at 20:00 (underwhelming, but free), and the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade.
Sheung Wan and Tai Ping Shan — antique shops on Hollywood Road, Man Mo Temple thick with hanging incense coils, and the best independent café and bar scene in the city.
Central to Mid-Levels escalator — the world's longest outdoor covered escalator system, 800 m, running down in the morning and up from 10:00.
Temple Street Night Market in Yau Ma Tei, and the Ladies' Market in Mong Kok — both touristy, both fun after dark.
Chungking Mansions — a labyrinth of guesthouses, currency changers and South Asian canteens in Tsim Sha Tsui; a genuine slice of the city's globalised underside, and home to excellent cheap curry.
Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery on Lantau — cable car from Tung Chung (or hike the Ngong Ping trail), a 34 m bronze Buddha and a good vegetarian lunch at the monastery.
Hiking. Three-quarters of Hong Kong is undeveloped, and the trails are outstanding. Dragon's Back (ridge walk to a beach, 2 hours, easy), Lion Rock (city panorama, steep), Sai Kung and the MacLehose Trail sections 1–2 (volcanic coastline, remote beaches). This is the most under-appreciated thing about Hong Kong.
Islands. Cheung Chau for seafood and a car-free village, Lamma for beaches and walking, Peng Chau for quiet.
Food#
Hong Kong is one of the world's great eating cities.
- Dim sum — yum cha at Lin Heung Kui, Lung King Heen (three Michelin stars), or any neighbourhood teahouse. Go before 11:00
- Roast goose — Yat Lok, Kam's Roast; the char siu and roast pork belly too
- Wonton noodles — Mak's Noodle, Tsim Chai Kee; small bowls, thin noodles, prawn wontons
- Cha chaan teng — Hong Kong's diners, serving milk tea, pineapple buns, macaroni soup and instant noodles with luncheon meat. Australia Dairy Company is the famous one
- Egg tarts — Tai Cheong, Honolulu Coffee Shop
- Dai pai dong — the surviving open-air food stalls, mostly in Sheung Wan and Sham Shui Po
- Sham Shui Po generally — the best cheap eating district in the city
Practicalities#
- Days needed: three nights minimum; four to add Lantau and a hike.
- Season: October to December is the best — dry, clear, mild. Summer is hot, humid and typhoon-prone. Spring is foggy.
- Plugs: UK-style three-pin (type G), 220 V — different from the mainland.
- Language: Cantonese, with English widely spoken and all signage bilingual.
- Getting to the mainland: high-speed rail from West Kowloon to Guangzhou (50 min), Shenzhen (20 min), Beijing and Shanghai directly. Immigration is handled inside the station.
- Macau: one hour by ferry, or by bus over the 55 km bridge. Also a separate immigration zone.
Frequently asked questions#
Do I need a separate visa for Hong Kong?#
Hong Kong has its own immigration policy, and most nationalities enter visa-free for 14 to 180 days depending on passport. A mainland Chinese visa does not cover Hong Kong, and crossing from Hong Kong into mainland China counts as a new entry against your Chinese visa or visa-free allowance.
Does Google work in Hong Kong?#
Yes. Hong Kong's internet is not filtered, so Google, WhatsApp, Instagram, Facebook and Western news sites all work normally without a VPN — unlike mainland China.
What is an Octopus card?#
Hong Kong's stored-value transport and payment card, used on the MTR, buses, trams, ferries and in convenience stores and many restaurants. Buy one at any MTR station for about HK$150 including deposit, or add it to your phone.
How many days do you need in Hong Kong?#
Three nights covers the harbour, the Peak, the main neighbourhoods and the food. Four lets you add Lantau's Big Buddha and a proper hike such as Dragon's Back or the Sai Kung coastline.
Can I use my credit card in Hong Kong?#
Yes, everywhere. Contactless Visa and Mastercard work normally throughout Hong Kong, which makes it the one part of Greater China where your usual card needs no workaround.