Nanjing#
The "southern capital" was the seat of the early Ming dynasty, the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, and the Republic of China. It is a green, walled, university city on the Yangtze, an hour and a quarter from Shanghai — and it carries the weight of the 20th century more visibly than anywhere else in China.
What to see#
Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum — the tomb of the Hongwu Emperor, founder of the Ming, on Purple Mountain. The Sacred Way, lined with stone elephants, camels, lions and officials, is the model that the Ming Tombs near Beijing later copied. UNESCO-listed. ¥70.
Nanjing City Wall — at 25 km, the longest surviving city wall in the world, built from 1366. Walkable sections include the stretch by Zhonghua Gate, a vast fortified barbican with four successive gates and internal tunnels for troops. ¥50.
Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum — 392 granite steps up Purple Mountain to the tomb of the founder of the Republic of China. Free, and a place of genuine national pilgrimage.
Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall — commemorating the killing of an estimated 300,000 people by the Japanese army in the winter of 1937–38. Free, sober, and extremely affecting. It is not a comfortable visit and it is the most historically important site in the city.
Nanjing Museum — one of China's best, with a superb Republican-era street reconstruction in the basement. Free, book ahead.
Confucius Temple (Fuzimiao) and the Qinhuai River — restored, commercial, lively at night with lantern boats.
Presidential Palace — the seat of the Republican government, and before it the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom's palace.
Purple Mountain in general — the Ming tomb, the mausoleum, an observatory and a good deal of forest.
Food: salted duck (yanshuiya), duck blood and vermicelli soup, and the small pastries around Fuzimiao.
Practicalities: 1h15 from Shanghai, 3h30 from Beijing. One or two nights. Best in spring and autumn; summer is one of the "furnace" cities, regularly above 38°C.
Qingdao#
Germany held Qingdao as a concession from 1898 to 1914 and built a European town, a cathedral, a governor's residence and — decisively — a brewery. Today it is a wealthy coastal city with red-roofed hillside streets, decent beaches and the best-known beer in China.
What to see#
The German quarter — Zhongshan Road, Guangxi Road and the streets above them, full of European buildings, cobbles and tiled roofs. St Michael's Cathedral (1934) and the Protestant Church with its working clock mechanism are the landmarks. The Governor's Residence is a Jugendstil mansion open to visitors.
Tsingtao Brewery Museum (¥60) — in the original 1903 brewery. It is well done, ends with fresh unpasteurised beer, and is more interesting than it sounds. Along Dengzhou Road ("Beer Street") outside, the local habit is to buy draught beer in a plastic bag with a straw.
Badaguan — a district of eight streets, each planted with a different tree species and lined with villas built in a dozen national styles. The most attractive walking in the city.
Beaches — Number One and Number Two bathing beaches, and the quieter Shilaoren further east. Northern China's best urban beaches, though not tropical.
Zhanqiao Pier — the pavilion on the Tsingtao label.
Laoshan (¥90–130) — a Taoist sacred mountain rising straight out of the sea 40 km east, with monasteries, granite peaks and coastal paths. A full day and the best thing in the region.
Food: seafood above all — clams with garlic, grilled squid, sea cucumber. The night markets on Pichaiyuan and the seafood streets near the beaches.
Practicalities: 3 hours from Beijing by high-speed rail, 4 hours from Shanghai. Two nights. Season matters here — Qingdao is a summer beach city, and July and August are packed. May, June and September are the sweet spot. The International Beer Festival in August is a major event and a difficult time to find a room.
Frequently asked questions#
Is Nanjing worth visiting?#
Yes, particularly for anyone interested in history. The Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, the 25 km city wall, the Nanjing Museum and the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall together make a substantial and serious two days, and it is only 75 minutes from Shanghai.
How far is Nanjing from Shanghai?#
About 300 km, or 1 hour 15 minutes by high-speed rail, with very frequent departures. It works as a long day trip but is better as an overnight.
Why is there German architecture in Qingdao?#
Germany held Qingdao as a leased concession from 1898 until 1914 and built a European town there, including the cathedral, governor's residence and the brewery that became Tsingtao. Much of that architecture survives in the old quarter and Badaguan district.
Is the Tsingtao Brewery Museum worth visiting?#
Yes. It occupies the original 1903 brewery, covers the city's German history well, and finishes with fresh unpasteurised beer. Outside, Beer Street sells draught beer in plastic bags, which is a genuine local custom.
When should I visit Qingdao?#
May, June and September — warm enough for the beaches without the July and August domestic crowds. The International Beer Festival in August fills the city and pushes hotel prices sharply higher.